Project 2: Washable Bowl Covers

Washable Bowl Covers

1.  Supplies needed are PUL fabric, FOE, thread, and 2 circle items to use as pattern.  I chose 2 different sized circles so I could make my bowl covers in a few different sizes.



2.  Trace your circle onto your PUL.  Cut 2 layers per bowl cover.

3.  Now is the time to embroidery a design on the top side of PUL if you wish to do so. 

4.  Next I do a basic zigzag to casually attach my 2 sides together.  You don't have to do this.  However I find it much easier when attaching FOE.  It's an extra step, but for me it keeps the project much more relaxed by doing this extra step.

5.  When I am done zig zagging I trim off the extra bits around the edge.  I trim close to the zigzag.  This assures that my zig zagging will not stick out past my FOE.

6.  Now you are ready to attached the FOE.  FOE is a creased/folded elastic.  It is great as you can finish an edge and gather with it all at the same time.  It does have a sight learning curve to it if you have never used it before.  I start attaching my FOE at the center bottom of the cover.  I use a 3 step zigzag stitch for attaching FOE.  I like it to be narrow and long.  This is a personal preference and you can experiment to see the setting you most prefer for your own work.

7.  If your machine has a setting for needle stop up or down.  Be sure to set it for needle stop down.  This was as you stop to gather the FOE your project remains anchored in the machine.





8.  As you stitch around the PUL you will keep your edge tucked into the folded FOE.  You will gently pull your FOE so that you are creating a gather with the elastic.  You will do this in small sections so that you can stay on the curve, keep an even pull etc.  Again, this is why you should stop with the needle in a down position.

9.  There are numerous ways and methods to finishing FOE.  This is the method I prefer to use. 

You continue your 3 step all the way around.  You go over your starting point slightly and then angle off the item still stitching the 3 step thru your foe.

This leaves a "tail" that you fold to the back side.  Do a gentle angled fold to keep the edge smooth.  If you fold it sharply you are going to get a bump or a point.  You are "following the curve.

Next you will stitch a straight stitch in the crease on the front side.  You do this just in the area where the tail lays on the backside so that you are catching the tail in this stitching.



Trim the tail off close to the straight stitching and if you wish you can seal the raw foe edge with Fray Check.

And you are done... It's that easy!



Project 1: Travel Tic-Tac-Toe

Travel Tic-Tac-Toe

July 2012



1.     Decide the approximate size you would like your tic-tac-toe board to be.  One a sheet of paper, which is to serve as your pattern, create a square that size.  Then on all four sides add your ¼ inch seam allowance if you want it on your pattern.  I cut mine out at 5”.

2.    Create the flap pattern piece using a square the same size as your original square (pre seam allowance).  Put a dot in the center.  You can then shape your flap as you wish.  It can be a sharp triangle, it can be one not so sharp, which is what I chose, it can be curved or straight across.

You can cut that shape out and if you want to add your seam  allowance to your pattern you can or to the fabric itself when  you cut.

3.     Prewash your fabric and iron.  Cut out 4 of your squares from your fabric and 2 of your flap.  Then you will need to add stability.  You can use batting, felt, interfacing, etc.  For mine I used felt.  And my directions will be for using the felt.  Cut out 2 squares and one flap of the felt. You will cut all these out slightly smaller than your pattern pieces as you do not want the bulk in your seam or seam allowance.

4.    Take your 2 flap pieces, sew right sides together.  I trimmed seam allowance close to reduce bulk with pinking shears (to reduce fraying).  Turn, push points and edges.  Insert your felt. If you wish to top stitch do so now. 



5.    Next we will sew the top seam of the front and back side of the pocket.  These are 2 separate seams.  Take your front and lay wrong sides together.  Stitch.  I trim my seam allowance again with pinkers.  Turn.  If it don’t want to lay well for you, press.  Once turned I lay my felt between these 2 layers with the seam right side out.  If you want to top stitch across that top edge do so now.



For the back side we have to sandwich our layers.  Between your 2 backside layers in your seam you are going to sew you are going to center your flap.  It will be between your layers so when you turn it after sewing it is facing the correct way.  Also in this seam allowance you are going to catch your rick rack edges so they are in the finished seam allowance.

Turn once sewn.

6.  Your flap now is as it should be.  Let it hang loose to the top.  We are now going to focus on the the back pieces.  Put the piece of felt between them.  Center it.  Lay the rick rack down and stitch thru the 2 layers, and felt and stitch the them down.  Then stitch down rick rack going in the other direction as well, making the tic tack design. 

  

7.      You now should have the front and the back.  Down to 2 pieces.  The front you still need to handle carefully so that your felt does not fall out of the middle of it.

Lay your front and back right sides together.  The rickrack will be to the center.  Sew around the 3 raw edges (bottom and sides) Reinforce the top sides since kids will be playing and using these.  Trim seam allowance with pinkers or serge finish.  Turn.



8.  Apply your snap for closing.  You could adjust your pattern/sewing if you prefer to do Velcro.  Just keep in mind that Velcro makes noise, so if you are doing this for quiet times, the Velcro might be too noisy.

9. Then you need to decide what you want to use as playing pieces.  You can cut felt, use buttons, etc.  Put them in the pouch and you are good to go.